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Color Test Methodology (Draping)

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Transcription Color Test Methodology (Draping)


Protocol for preparation and neutralization of the environment

Accuracy in color diagnosis depends entirely on the neutralization of external variables that may contaminate visual perception.

The human eye has the ability to adapt and compensate for colors, which can lead to errors if the environment is not visually aseptic.

The protocol requires that the client be devoid of any makeup; the skin must be "bare" to reveal its true reactions.

If the hair is dyed, it should be completely covered with a white or neutral gray band or cap, as incorrect dyeing could influence the consultant's decision.

Lighting is the most important technical pillar: indirect natural light or, failing that, artificial lighting calibrated to daylight temperature (approximately 5,500 degrees Kelvin) with a high color rendering index is required.

In addition, the client's clothing should be hidden under a neutral-colored hair coat or bib (medium gray is ideal so as not to dazzle like pure white).

The advisor positions himself so that he can simultaneously observe the colored cloth and the client's face in the mirror, looking for changes in the luminosity and homogeneity of the complexion.

The temperature test with metals and critical cloths

The technical procedure begins with the definition of the temperature, using the reflectance of the metals. Silver and gold lamé cloths are alternated under the chin.

If silver brings light, clears the skin of visual blemishes and smoothes fine lines, the person has a cool base.

If, on the other hand, the silver makes her look pale or sickly, and it is the gold that restores vitality and a healthy appearance, the base is warm. To refine this finding, shades of white are compared.

Optical white (bluish, clinical) favors cold seasons, especially Winter.

If this tone hardens the features, it is tested with a cream, ivory or off-white; if it blends harmoniously with the skin, it confirms a warm season.

As a final test or "tie-breaker", critical colors exclusive to each temperature are used: orange (warm) versus magenta or fuchsia (cold).

Orange is the most difficult color for a cold person to tolerate; if the face looks sallow or dark circles under the eyes darken drastically, the cold diagnosis is irrefutable.

Summary

Accurate diagnosis requires neutralizing external contaminating variables. The client should be without makeup, cover dyed hair and neutral gray clothing, under calibrated daylight-type lighting.

The technical procedure begins by comparing the reflectance of metallized cloths under the chin. If silver illuminates and cleanses the skin, it indicates coldness; if gold brings health, it indicates warmth.

The finding is refined by comparing optical targets against creams and using unique critical colors. Tolerance to orange versus magenta acts as the ultimate test to break the temperature tie.


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