Contouring and Corrective Makeup Techniques

Sculpting the face with light and shadow (Chiaroscuro)

Corrective makeup is based on the theory of chiaroscuro: dark tones (contouring) sink, hide and visually reduce an area, while light tones (illuminator) highlight, project and amplify. This technique makes it possible to "redraw" the bone structure towards the ideal oval.

On a round face, darkness is applied on the outer sides and under the cheekbones diagonally to refine the cheeks, and the center (forehead, nose, chin) is illuminated to draw the eye to the vertical axis.

For a square face, darken the corners of the forehead and especially the corners of the jaw to soften its prominence, applying blush in a rounded shape on the apples of the cheeks.

For an elongated face, dark contouring is applied at the hairline (top) and at the tip of the chin (bottom) to "shorten" the face, avoiding darkening the sides.

Eyebrow design and facial proportion

Eyebrows are the frame of the look and can drastically alter the perception of the features. Their design should not follow fashions, but mathematical proportions.

To establish the correct design, the technique of the three points aligned with the nose is used:

Start: Draw a vertical line from the nose flap upwards; this is where the eyebrow should begin. If they are too far apart, the nose will appear wider.

Arch (high point): Draw a diagonal line from the bridge of the nose through the center of the pupil; this is the point of maximum height.

End: A line is drawn from the bridge of the nose through the corner of the eye.

In addition, the shape should compensate for the face: straighter and more horizontal eyebrows help to shorten long faces, while more arched and angular eyebrows help to stylize and "lift" round faces.

Choice of colors in make-up (foundation and shadows)

The choice of foundation is the most common and critical mistake. The foundation should exactly match the undertone of the skin (pink/cool or yellow/warm).

A pink foundation on warm skin will create a "gray mask" effect, while a yellow foundation on cool skin will look orange and artificial.

For color products (shadows, blushes, lipsticks), we apply the theory of seasons.

A cold person should use pink or fuchsia blushes, shadows in shades of gray, silver, mauve or black, and lipsticks in the range of red or pink fruits.

A warm person will glow with peach, coral or terracotta blushes, shades of bronze, copper, golden brown or moss green, and orange, brick or warm nude lipsticks.

Color consistency in makeup is what gives that natural "good face" look.

Summary

Corrective makeup uses the theory of chiaroscuro to sculpt the face toward the ideal oval. Darker tones deepen and reduce prominent areas, while lighter tones project and amplify specific areas.

Eyebrows frame the eye and should be designed according to mathematical proportions, not fads. Three guide lines are drawn from the nose to define start, arch and end, compensating for the facial shape.

The foundation should exactly match the skin undertone to avoid artificial mascara effects. Color products, such as shadows and lipsticks, are chosen according to the season to ensure chromatic coherence.