Fundamentals of Morphology and Taking Measurements

Somatotype classification and bony immutability

The study of body morphology should not be confused with weight or height. It is an architectural analysis of bone structure, which is immutable.

A person can gain or lose muscle fat, but his or her "chassis" or base structure remains constant.

For example, a woman with an "hourglass" morphology who gains weight will still maintain the marked waist to shoulder and hip ratio, even if her overall volume increases; in fact, the myth of the "apple body" is often simply an hourglass or rectangle with localized overweight.

We classify silhouettes into five main geometric archetypes to facilitate diagnosis: Hourglass (balanced with waist), Triangle (predominant hips), Inverted Triangle (predominant shoulders), Rectangle (balanced without a defined waist) and Oval (central volume).

Understanding that morphology is the canvas on which we work allows the consultant to stop fighting against the nature of the body and start using clothing as a tool for optical harmonization.

Technical protocol for anthropometric measurement

To determine the typology accurately, a visual inspection ("ommeter") is not enough; a flexible tape measure measurement protocol is required.

The client should wear tight-fitting clothing (such as leggings and top) to avoid false volumes. Three key circumferential measurements are taken:

Shoulders: the full circumference is measured by circling the highest part of the back and shoulders, keeping the tape straight and parallel to the floor.

Waist: Look for the narrowest area of the natural torso (usually above the navel and below the rib cage). If it is not visible, it is measured at the level of the bent elbows.

Hip: The most prominent part of the buttocks and high hip is measured. These figures are compared with each other.

If the shoulders and hips differ by less than 5%, they are considered balanced.

The relationship of the waist to these two points will determine whether there is curve (hourglass) or straightness (rectangle).

Weight distribution and focal points

A crucial aspect of the diagnosis is to identify where adipose tissue tends to accumulate, as this confirms the structural typology.

The Triangle body, when gaining weight, will do so almost exclusively in the "love handles" and legs, keeping the waist and upper torso relatively defined.

The Inverted Triangle will accumulate volume in the upper back, arms and bust, keeping the legs slim.

The Rectangular body tends to distribute weight in the abdomen, losing any vestige of waistline, while the Hourglass gains weight peripherally and evenly, retaining its curvaceous silhouette longer.

Observing these patterns helps the consultant predict which cuts of clothing will work in the long run, regardless of the client's weight fluctuations.

Summary

Morphology analyzes immutable bone structure, not weight. We classify silhouettes into five main geometric archetypes, such as Hourglass or Triangle, based on the proportion between shoulders, waist and hips.

Accurate diagnosis requires measuring with a tape measure over tight-fitting clothing. We compare the circumferences of the three key points to determine if there is a natural balance or if a specific area predominates.

The distribution of adipose tissue confirms the base structural typology. Observing where weight accumulates, whether in the hips or abdomen, helps predict which cuts of clothing will work in the long run.