Haircuts and Corrective Hairstyles

Volume Strategies for Wide Faces (Round and Square)

Hair is the frame of the face and its volumetric management is the most powerful tool to redefine facial geometry. For faces where width predominates, the goal is always to verticalize.

For the round face, the strategy is to eliminate any lateral volume at the level of the ears or cheeks, as this would widen the visual perception.

Opt for cuts that generate height in the crown area (such as a toupee or a pixie textured upwards) or straight and long styles that fall in front of the shoulders, creating vertical lines that "cut" the roundness of the cheeks.

In the case of the square face, although it is also wide, the challenge is to soften the hardness of the jaw angles. Here, straight lines are the enemy.

Cuts with movement, soft waves and frayed layers starting below the chin are recommended.

A common mistake is to cut a straight bob right at the jawline, as this emphasizes the square bone structure; the ideal is an asymmetrical long bob that falls longer at the front, drawing attention away from the jawline and adding softness.

Bangs and lengths for vertically unbalanced faces (Elongated and Triangular)

When the face has an excess of length (elongated or rectangular), the priority is to "cut" this verticality.

The fringe is the great ally: a straight, bushy fringe, long to the eyebrows, immediately reduces the perception of a wide forehead or a very long face.

Also, look for volume on the sides; hairstyles with wide waves on the sides or chin-length haircuts with body help to optically widen the face. For triangular morphologies, we work by volume compensation.

In the triangular face (pear), where the jaw is wide and the forehead is narrow, volume in the lower area should be avoided.

We suggest cuts with many layers at the top and side bangs that add width to the forehead.

On the other hand, in the inverted triangle (heart), where the forehead is wide and the chin thin, we need to visually "fill in" the neck and jaw area; a mid-length mane with the ends combed out or with volume at the base is the right technical choice.

Adapting trends to the type of face

The image consultant must act as a filter between fashion and the client. Not all hair trends suit all morphologies.

If the trend is for "extra straight board hair" (parted in the middle and without volume) and the client has an elongated face, applying this trend without criteria will accentuate the defect, making it appear languid.

In this case, you can adapt the trend by moving the parting to one side (to break the vertical symmetry) or by adding texture at the ends.

The golden rule is that the architecture of the cut should always prevail over the fashion of the moment; the style should serve the face, not the other way around.

Summary

Volumetric hair management redefines facial geometry through optical illusions. For wide faces such as the round face, the aim is to verticalize by eliminating lateral volume and generating height at the crown, avoiding geometric cuts.

For elongated faces, the priority is to cut the verticality using thick bangs and side waves. For triangular morphologies, volumes are compensated: top layers for the pear shape or midi lengths for the inverted triangle.

The advisor must filter the fashions, because not all of them favor each morphology. The architecture of the cut always prevails over the trend; the style must serve the client's face and not the other way around.